Tacos, frozen mezcal pina coladas: JoCo Mexican place opens new Kansas City location

Excerpt from Kansas City Star: Opening & Closing, Sept 8, 2023
Words by David Hudnall
Photos by Tammy Ljungblad

A quesabirria taco with white onions and cilantro, dipped in an au jus consummé at Taco Naco in Westport.

Street tacos with fresh ingredients and a bit of chef’s flair, mezcal bottles on the wall, patio high seats overlooking the Westport sidewalk: It’s hard not to compare Taco Naco, which opened at 4144 Pennsylvania last week, to Port Fonda, which occupied the space from 2012 to 2022. There are plenty of differences between the two Mexican joints, though. Taco Naco opts for counter service over table service. The room is brighter, the decor more colorful (lots of pinks and reds). And they don’t blast rap music at a blistering volume, as Port Fonda famously did: The vibe is a little more family-friendly, a little less of a see-and-be-seen party atmosphere.

Still, it’s in Westport, which is a change of pace from the first Taco Naco that owners Fernanda Reyes and her husband, Brian Goldman Ruiz, opened in 2021. That one sits in a sleepy strip mall off Metcalf Avenue, a few blocks south of downtown Overland Park. In Westport, they’re closer to the action.

Fernanda Reyes, left, and Brian Goldman Ruiz, co-founders of Taco Naco KC, which opened Sept. 2 at 4141 Pennsylvania Ave. in Westport.

“We like being around other chefs and were looking for a more destination kind of space,” Goldman Ruiz said. The Westport menu is mostly the same as in Overland Park, with a few exceptions. Bartender Diana Condori has added a few new frozen concoctions to Taco Naco’s offerings (think frozen mezcal pina coladas), and their weekend brunch now features chilaquiles. The frozen pineapple Fuego Margarita is one of Taco Naco’s more popular drinks. The frozen pineapple Fuego Margarita is one of Taco Naco’s more popular drinks. Tammy Ljungblad tljungblad@kcstar.com “I’ve been waiting a long time for Chef Fernanda to put (the chilaquiles) on the menu,” Goldman Ruiz said. “Her entire family in Mexico really excels at comida casera (homestyle foods) like soups and chilaquiles, and those chilaquiles are really something I miss from when we visit them in Durango (Mexico).” Otherwise, the tacos remain the big draw.

Taco Naco’s new restaurant at 4144 Pennsylvania is its second location. The first opened in Overland Park in 2021.

“Our quesabirria tacos are very popular at both of our locations, but we also see a lot of the signature tacos selling (in Westport), like our pork al pastor and brisket barbacoa tacos,” Reyes said. The new location also offers daily specials: Taco Tuesdays, Rice Bowl Wednesdays, Thirsty Thursdays and Fish Fry Taco Fridays. During happy hour — weekdays from 3 to 6 p.m. — Mexican beers are $3.50, classic margaritas are $6 and frozen cocktails are $9. Kimia Cutchlow, left, and Andrich Parker shared a meal Wednesday at Taco Naco KC.

Kimia Cutchlow, left, and Andrich Parker shared a meal Wednesday at Taco Naco KC.

Tammy Ljungblad Hours are 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to midnight Friday, 8 a.m. to midnight Saturday, and 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. Sunday. “We like being around other chefs and were looking for a more destination kind of space,” said owner Brian Goldman Ruiz of Taco Naco’s new Westport location.

“We like being around other chefs and were looking for a more destination kind of space,” said owner Brian Goldman Ruiz of Taco Naco’s new Westport location.

Plans for a third Taco Naco? “Perhaps down the road,” Goldman Ruiz said. “We are always looking at spaces for future consideration, but for now, we want to focus on ensuring our customers receive a great and consistent experience at both of our locations.”